UPnP is great on paper, but to my knowledge many routers implement it really poorly. For example with our Linksys WRT54GL, UPnP works when you boot up the router, but apparently it doesn't announce itself after boot at all or something, so UPnP stops working after like an hour or so. It's enabled and all in the web interface, too, and the router has the newest firmware. 
Btw, when UPnP works, you can set up port forwardings from Network Connections -> Internet Gateway.
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